FAQ'S

Quilt Dyenamics goal is to enhance the beauty of each of your quilt projects. Jane Vester has 40 years of sewing and quilting knowledge.

Q: Should I sandwich my quilt prior to shipping to Quilt Dyenamics?

A: It is not necessary to sandwich the quilt because each of the layers are loaded separately in the quilting machine.

Q: What type of quilting should be done on my quilt top?

A: We should determine whether this quilt is ulitarian or an heirloom. We should also take into consideration how this quilt will be laundered or will it be a gift.

Q: Why does the quilt top bubble wavy in the center?

A: It could be that the borders were measured too short and put on incorrectly.

Q: Why are my borders wavy?

A: The borders may be too long for the size of your quilt top.

Q: If my quilt bubbles in the center and the borders are wavy, can the quilt top be quilted?

A: Yes, but the quilt may not lay completely flat and may bag while on vertical display. Depending on how much bagging there is in the quilt top and borders, it might be possible to quilt the excess in.

Q: Can I piece my quilt backing?

A: Yes you can. However, the backing will load straighter in the quilting machine if we are using torn edges and salvages. Quilt Dyenamics will also piece your backing for you. Call or email Quilt Dyenamics for further instructions on piecing your quilt backings.

Q: Could I use wider fabric for my quilt backing, such as 108" wide?

A: Yes you can. In fact the fabric loads easier without the seams. In most cases the cost comparison of 108" wide fabric is comparable to 45" wide yardage because you're buying a single width. There is not piecing involved with wider fabric which saves time.

Q: Is it important to check to see is you backing is on grain?

A: We think so. Have you ever purchased a pair of jeans that look and feel wonderful when you tried them on at the store only to find out that after you wash them, that the side seam has twisted to the front? The reason is that at the factory, the jeans were not cut on the straight of grain and that the seizing acted as a stabilizer, preventing the fabric from lying with the straight of grain when they cut the jeans out.

If the backing isn't pieced together, Quilt Dyenamics checks to see if the fabric is on grain prior to loading. This is an extra step that we take to adds to the quality control and helps to ensure that you quilt will hang straight after several washings.

If you would like to do this step at home, please contact us for further instructions and we would be happy to assist you.

Q: What is seizing?

A: Seizing is a form of finishing starch, which fabric mills like to apply to make it easier to roll the fabric on bolts for retail sale. It also acts a wrinkle free agent to cotton and cotton blends until the yardage is laundered.

Q: Should I wash and press my quilt back?

A: If the fabrics in your quilt top have been washed, it may be a good idea to wash and press your quilt backing too. Pressing makes it easier to ensure quilt backing is straight in the quilting machine. Washing your fabrics for your quilt top and backing, you can test the fabric for bleeding and reduces the amount of overall shrinkage of the quilt.

Q: Should I press my seams open on my quilt backing?

A: I believe it is better to press the seams over, in the direction of the outside selvages. Open seams allow the batting to migrate between the stitches in open seams.

Q: Is it better to use 100% cotton fabric for quilt backing?

A: If your quilt top is made of 100% cotton, then it is advisable to use 100% cotton for the backing. Blending fibers is not recommended because the polycottons do not age the same as cotton. You will have to replace the cotton patches sooner in quilt tops that are made of blended fibers.

Q: What if my quilt top has polycotton mixed with cotton, can it still be quilted?

A: Yes, your quilt can still be quilted on the quilting machine. However, blending your fabrics of polycotton and cotton should be avoided where possible. Because cotton is a natural fiber, they have a tendency to wear more quickly than polycotton. The cotton patches will have to be replaced or repaired long before the polycotton shows the same kind of wear. Cotton fades evenly and polycotton fades at a different rate than cotton.

Q: How much larger should my quilt backing be?

A: Quilt Dyenamics prefers 8" larger in both directions for loading purposes. The quilt top is centered so that there is 4" all around. When doing Pantograph, at the beginning of each row, there will be a pucker if there is less than 4" of quilt backing.

Q: What types of batting should I use?

A; Batting is very much a personal choice. It depends on what effect that you are trying to achieve. There are many companies that produce good quality batting.

Polyester batting depending on the loft, will give a definite line of quilting.

Hobb 80/20 batting is of 80% cotton and 20% polyester, which is referred to as a flat batt. It is a low loft batt that shows a definite line of quilting due to the polyester.

100% cotton: Due to it's low loft, produces a less obvious line of quilting.

Both the 100% cotton and the 80/20 batts give quilts the traditional antique appearance.

There are some batting that do not load well in the quilting machine, please check with me before purchasing your batting.

Q: Does Quilt Dyenamics carry a selection of batting?

A: Yes, we carry a 2oz, all season and a heavier 4oz polyester battings, as well as 80/20 and 100% cotton batting.

Q: How much larger should the batting be?

A: Quilt Dyenamics prefers 8" longer and wider than you quilt top for loading purposes.

Q: Does Batting shrink?

A: Yes, a considerable amount. On average of 3-5 inches in both directions after laundering the quilt and may continue to shrink even after a few more washings. The batting is relaxing to it's natural state after being laundered.

Q: How do I tell the difference between cotton and polycotton?

A: By burning samples of fabric, you can roughly determine the fabric content.

Cotton

Burning 100% cotton smells like a wood fire burning, it has not black residue burning in the flame and leaves behind a very fine grey ash.

When burning, it has a black flame, burns quickly and leaves a hard crust or bead of residue. Some man made fibers are by-products of petroleum oil.

Other Natural Fibers

Wool and silk are natural fibers and the flame has a tendency to extinguish itself. The odor is like burning piece of meat or burnt hair.

Q: Why does most quilter's prefer cotton to polycotton?

A: There are several reasons that cotton is the preferred fabric choice.

Cotton will press flatter and keep a crisp press.

Cotton is easier to hand quilt than polycotton due to the tight weave in polycotton.

Cotton fabrics heal better when a machine quilting error is made. Simply rub your fingers over the tiny holes until they disappear.

Polycotton that have holes in error from machine quilting, do not heal readily.

Cotton is a natural fiber that allows airflow through and lets your body breath as well as absorbs moisture next to the body.

Q: Does Quilt Dyenamics have a binding service?

A: Yes, we would be delighted to apply your binding on your quilt for you, for a fee.

Q: How do I calculate the binding yardage?

A: For straight of grain bindings:

Straight of grain bindings, measure your width and your length. Add those two figures together. Multiply by two and add eighteen inches more, just in case you need it.

A: Bias binding for a curve:

Bias bindings are harder to calculate, if there is a curved edge. To figure out a length or width, measure a single curve, multiply that by how many curves you have on that side. Then follow the directions for a straight of grain binding. Remember, it's better to have too much binding than not enough.

Applying bias bindings evenly are tricky. It is important not to pull and stretch the bias binding while applying the binding to the edge of the quilt. Too much pull on the binding produces an uneven curl. Too little pull creates an excess amount of fabric to ease in.

Q: How many 2.5 strips of do I require per quilt?

A: For straight of grain bindings:

Measure your width and your length. Add those two figures together and multiply by two. That will give you the perimeter of the quilt. Then divide by the width of the fabric you have chosen for the binding, plus a bit extra, just in case.

The same formula would apply providing you have taken into consideration the calculation for the curve.

Q: How should I send the quilt top?

A: I recommend sending your quilts top by registered and insured mail. I will return your quilt registered and insured for the value of your fabrics and my completed work. If by chance that the parcel went astray, we both would receive the monetary value for our work.

Cross boarder shipping may not be insured and may be delayed at the US boarder. Check with US Customs to inquire about the updated regulations. Courier services are too expensive within Canada.

Q: Can I make arrangements to pick up my quilt?

A: Yes! We welcome your arrival and appreciate the time you have take to make the journey to pick up your beautifully quilted quilt.

There are a variety of coloured sewing thread to match your quilt top and bottom. Invisible thread, variegated, holographic, glow in the dark , metallic, rayon , 100% cotton thread are just a few examples of what is on the market. Each of these types of threads offer a unique and interesting appearance to your quilt. Man made thread fibers have a tendency to wear a larger hole in the quilt, were the line of sewing is.

Invisible thread blends in so as not to be an obvious line of coloured stitching. If the quilt top has many different colours in it, this type of thread is a good choice so that you don't have to change your threads to match your fabric colours. It will blend with everything. Invisible thread can be used in conjunction with other types of thread as well. Another quality about invisible thread is it's strength. Because it's made of nylon, it will outlast 100% cotton thread.

Cotton thread has not the strength of a man made fibre but is a good choice if you want a thread to break before it wears holes in the quilt. The quilt can always be re-quilted if the fibers in the quilt top are strong.

Variegated threads can be 100% cotton and man made such as metallic and rayon. They add interesting effects and colour to quilts.

Glow in the Dark thread add interesting effects to quilts. They are a wonderful additive to children's quilts, in the background of star quilts or on the back of quilts in conjunction of a solid coloured quilt backing. They are a man made fibre.

Rayon thread is a thin, man made fibre. It's sheen adds interesting accents to quilts.

Metallic thread is a man made fibre. It is a difficult thread to use but adds a wonderful effect or punch in the quilt. We use it to accentuate water, stars, sky or grass to add that special extra touch.

Holographic thread is a flat, man made fibre that adds sparkle to quilts. The colours are uniquely different than metallic thread and the effect is stunning.

Regular thread is available in 100% cotton and a polyester core that is cotton wrapped. The polyester core thread is stronger than 100% cotton and because it is cotton wrapped doesn't wear holes in the quilt as quickly over time.

Note: We are continuing to research this topic.

This topic is being researched.

Care and Feeding of Quilts

Smithsonian Institution

No two antique quilts are alike. What is best for one quilt is not automatically best for another. Sometimes it is advisable to clean a quilt, while sometimes, it is best to leave it alone.

Generally speaking, antique cotton and linen quilts should not be dry-cleaned. The tumbling action of dry cleaning can be very damaging. Instead of dry cleaning, quilts with are dye fast and in good condition may be wet-cleaned. Wet cleaning differs from regular washing in that the wet textile is not agitated or beaten in any way. Discoloration are removed by soaking the textile in water and water-and detergent solutions.

Before a cotton or linen quilt is wet-cleaned all the dyes and inscriptions must be tested to see if they are fast to plain water and then to water-and detergent solution. It is quite possible that the dyes and ink may be fast to the former but not the latter. Testing for fastness can be done by using an eyedropper, putting a few drops of the intended solution on an inconspicuous part of the quilt. When the solution has penetrated the fibers thoroughly, press a white blotter on the damp area. Lift the blotter to see if any of the colours in the fabric are visible on the blotter. If the blotter is still white, you may proceed with the cleaning of the quilt. Test each colour on the quilt. Examine the textile to see if it includes any glazed fabrics. Glazed finishes are usually removed by wet-cleaning. Study the quilt and decide whether it is most important to preserve the original finish of the glazed fabric, or to remove the soil, which may eventually cause the quilt to deteriorate.

After testing for fastness, study the quilts fragile areas. Nylon netting may be stitched over loose patches to hold them in place during cleaning. Backing with undyed muslin or sandwiching between undyed muslin of one side and nylon netting on the other can reinforce torn areas. These supporting fabrics should be applied with undyed cotton (white) thread, using as few stitches as possible - just enough to hold the fabrics in place. The stitches should be at least ¼” long and should pass through all layers of the quilt and reinforcing fabrics.

The first step in cleaning a quilt is to remove all airborne dust and dirt. Lay the quilt flat and run a low power hand vacuum cleaner over it. To prevent portions of the quilt from being drawn in the vacuum fiberglass-coated window screening should always be placed between the vacuum head and the quilt. Vacuum the entire quilt, front and back. In cases where the dyes and signatures are not fast, or when the glazed finishes on certain sections must be preserved, vacuuming may be the only safe method of removing soil.

Ideally, wet-cleaning should be done in the basin large enough to hold the quilt without folding it. Making a frame out of four boards and draping a plastic sheet across the center and over the edges of the boards can construct such a basin. If this cannot be done, the quilt may be folded to fit into the bathtub. The more folds put in the quilt, the more it will have to be rinsed. If folded, it should be folded with the face of the quilt out.

Fiberglass-coated screening throughout the entire process should support the quilt; the screening reduces stress on the textile as it is lifted out of the cleaning solution. Plain metal screening must not be used, because if may rust while wet.

Begin wet-cleaning by placing the quilt on a piece of fiberglass-coated window screening, and submerging it in plain water treated to about 90 degrees F. Do not use any detergent that is advertised as be8ing strong enough to clean the family wash, or one, which contains bleach and brighteners. Rather use one that is labeled "mild", "gentle" or "neutral". Do not scrub, squeeze or eat the quilt. The only cleaning motion allowable is a gentle pumping up and down with the hand.

After it is determined that the quilt is as clean as it will get, it must be thoroughly rinsed. This may take as many as seven rinses, especially if the quilt has been folded several times. If the quilt is in fragile condition it may be best to eliminate the detergent step in cleaning, as that it will be damaged.

When the quilt has been thoroughly rinsed, lift it out of the water, still on the screen, and place it on the floor or another large flat surface, which has been covered with plastic sheeting. Gently unfold the quilt. Blot it with clean cloth towels. Do not us paper towels, as they are acidic. It may be necessary to blot the quilt on both sides. After blotting the quilt a fan may be turned on near it (3 to 4 feet away) to aid in drying. Do not hang an antique quilt on the clothesline or put it in the dryer. Do not dry it out of doors.

Never permit a cotton quilt to linen quilt to be exposed to direct sunlight or bright indoor light. Light can weaken the fibers and fade colours. Store quilts wrapped in undyed muslin or white pillowcases or sheets that have been washed many times. The wrapping protects the quilt from direct contact with wooden or paper-lined drawers or closet shelves. Wood and paper are acidic, therefore they can be damaging to cotton and linen. Carefully refold the quilt several times a year to prevent permanent creases and splits in the fabric. Keeping the same folds year after year can cause splits in the fabric along fold lines. When refolding it is recommended that the quilt be placed on large flat surface, unfolded, then refolded. Quilts may also be stored on muslin-covered cardboard cylinders and then covered with muslin. A piece of polyethylene plastic may be placed over the muslin to prevent water damage but its ends should not be sealed. Do not seal a quilt in a plastic bag, as all textiles should have a constant exchange of air. Do not allow direct contact between the textile and the plastic. Ideally, the humidity in the storage area should not exceed 50 %, and the temperature should be about 65-70 degrees F.

This general information is provided in good faith, but with reference to, or examination of, a particular object. The Smithsonian Institute disclaims responsibility for the possible ill effects of applying it to an object.

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